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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.